To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. The throttle plates are misaligned. Thanks so much for reading! any ideas? It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. :-). itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. Well you were right air was entering from another source. Thanks for the great question! Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". Please give this a try and let us know how it works! This is more of a bit of a reality check. If the TPS is even just 2%, the IAC will go to the hold position (normally 30%) and will not change until the TPS goes back below 2%.If you create a datalog you will be better able to confirm if something is not working correctly. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. Um, no. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. Please advise. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to Glad to hear that things are working well! I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. nothing stays steady. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. Always had to set idle above 950. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. You are aware of the idle-up problem. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. The idle will not return to the set value.The second issue is the same as the first but the motor will stall out. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. Comp. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. :-). Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. 2. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. Thank you very much. The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. Hi Chris. Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . Cl. any advise would be appreciated. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. Hello Chris. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. It then started working normally again. ps. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Capability Range: Moderate I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. holley efi. The IAC reads 36 when at idle fully warmed up. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake.
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